कालवाची भजी। Oyster fritters.

  
कालवं is the local name for the indigenous oysters. They have a distinct flavour which is quite strong and if you don’t like them at first bite, it’s very rare you’ll ever get used to the taste.

They’re usually sold cleaned and de-shelled, but you have to careful wash them to get rid of any residual grit and shell bits.

Here’s my adaptation of a recipe shared by a friend. 

 
15-20 कालवं – Shelled and cleaned oysters (in a non stick pan, heat a few drops of oil, sauté a tsp of crushed garlic, some haldi, red chilli powder and salt on high heat and add the oysters. Cook for around 5-7 minutes till done.

3 medium onions

Handful of coriander leaves 

1 large green chilli

1 tsp Coriander powder

1 tsp Red chilli powder 

2/3 tbsp Besan

1 tbsp rice flour

  
 

Chop onions and add the masala powders. Add salt to taste and set aside till the moisture from the onions has leached.  

Add besan and rice flour and a tbsp or two of water – just enough to make a bhaji ya like batter.  
 

Add the chopped prepared oysters.

 
 

Let the batter rest for around 20 minutes. 

Fry in hot oil till crisp and golden. Serve with ketchup or chutney.
  

Kalamiryache Mutton – Black pepper flavoured mutton curry!

½ kg mutton, 
3 red onions chopped 

2 white onions – quartered

Ginger Garlic Paste – 2 tbsp

Pepper Powder – 1 and 1/2 tbsp

Potatoes – 2 quartered

Haldi

Coconut- ½ cup

Coriander and mint leaves to garnish
Pressure cook the mutton with haldi and ½ tbsp ginger garlic paste – set aside.

  
In the iron kadai (tazla) heat a tsp of oil and add a fistful of onions and sauté. Once browned, add coconut, toast till golden and grind to a fine paste.

  
In the same kadai, heat a tbsp oil and fry the potatoes (apply haldi and salt) till coloured. No need to cook these completely at this point. Set aside.

  
Now heat another tbsp of oil and add chopped red onions, quartered white onions (or whole peeled shallots) and sauté till translucent.

   
 Add ginger garlic paste and sauté till raw smell goes off.

Next add the ground masala paste, mutton with stock, potatoes and black pepper powder. Cook till the potatoes are done. Add salt and mix well.

  
Add the coriander and mint leaves – Mix and serve with pav.

  

Parbhi style Kaḍai Mutton – ताजल्यातलं सुक्कं मटण

  
For all those who think my Marathi sucks (refer to the Devnagri titles on many previous posts) the words, spellings and grammar are deliberate.

Pathare Prabhus speak a version of Marathi that’s slightly different compared to the shuddh bhaasha… So while the cast iron frying pan (kaḍai) I’ve used to cook up this dish is referred to as कढई in Marathi, parbhus will invariably refer to it as ताजलं (pronounced taazla)…

I love this version of mutton which is so simple to cook and with a little bit of patience, yields delicious results. Most families will have their own little twists to this traditional recipe. The inspiration for this post though is a recipe posted by another PP food expert – Kalpana Talpade on her YouTube channel.

Here’s my recipe –

Mutton on the bone – 750 gms (500 gms leg and 250 gms chops)… Trim off excess fat and cut into bite size pieces.

Onions – 100 gms (2 medium onions chopped fine)

Shallots – 500 gms (peel, top and tail)

Potatoes – 2/3 nos peel and cut lengthwise into 6/8 pieces

For the marinade

  1. Dahi – 1 cup
  2. Ginger Garlic Paste 2 tbsp
  3. Haldi – 1 tsp
  4. Red Chilli Powder – 1 and ½ tbsp
  5. Parbhi Sambhaar – 1 and ½ tbsp
  6. Pepper Powder – 1 tsp
  7. Cooking oil – 1 tsp

Ghee – 2 tsp

For garam masala tempering 

  1. Cloves – 2/3 nos 
  2. Peppercorns- 2/3 nos 
  3. Cinnamon/Cassia Bark – 1″ piece
  4. Whole green cardamoms – 2 nos
  5. Bay leaf – 1

Salt to taste and water as required

Marinate the cleaned mutton with the listed ingredients and leave in the refrigerator at least overnight – the longer the better. You won’t be adding any other masala and hence its important that the meat steeps in the marinade really well. 

 
Season an iron kadai – I rinse mine and oil the insides and leave it overnight. In the morning, heat till it smokes and wipe the insides with a tissue – your cast iron kadai is ready to use. 

 On a gentle flame, heat the ghee and splutter the whole garam masala.
  
Add the chopped onions and sauté till translucent. Add the peeled shallots and sauté for another minute or so.

  
Pressure cook the mutton for around 10 minutes or so with 2 cups of water. Add the parboiled mutton to the kadai and keep sautéing on a high flame till the mutton and onion are mixed well. 

Reserve the stock.

  
Cover with a heavy lid and place a weight on top. Keep the flame slow and add the stock a ladle or 2 at a time till the mutton is completely tender. Be careful of adding stock at regular intervals so that the mutton does not dry up nor sticks to the kadai. 

  
When it’s alsmost done, add the potatoes and replenish stock, cover and simmer till potatoes are done.

  
Once the potatoes are cooked and mutton is falling off the bone, remove the lid and dry up any residual liquid completely. 

The iron kadai and the slow cooked onions impart this dish a special taste.

Serve with rotis or parathas and a salad on the side. Perfect with a beer on a hot October Sunday!

   
 

Green Masala Kaleji

  

Green Masala Kaleji

I know a lot of folks that are queasy about offal! Carnivore that I am, I actually enjoy a lot of this spare part stuff.

Liver by far is my favourite offal. This recipe is my own and I try a variation each time. I’ve used chicken liver in this dish today.

Ingredients

Chicken Liver – 4 nos (around 200 gms)

Onion – 1 large (finely chopped)

Coriander leaves – 1 small bunch

Mint Leaves – 1 small bunch

Green chillies – 2/3

Ginger garlic paste – 1 tbsp

Coconut – 2 tbsp

Coriander seeds – 1 tsp

Juice of 1 nimbu

Oil – 3 tbsp 

Salt and sugar to taste

I find that soaking liver in half a cup of cool water and a tbsp milk for around 1/2 hour and then rinsing it out helps get rid of the strong metallic liver taste, which is unpleasant to many.

   

In a nonstick pan, heat a few drops of oil… Toast the coconut, coriander seeds and a tsp of chopped onion till brown. Cool and grind to a chutney and set aside.

  
Grind the coriander, mint and chillies to a paste using a little water.

Heat the balance oil in a thick bottomed pan, add chopped onions and sautē till pink and transparent.

Add ginger-garlic paste and sautē till the raw smell goes away

Add the coconut-onion masala and sautē for a minute. Add the green masala paste.

Now slide in the liver and a cup of water. Cover and simmer. (Ignore the chicken curry cooking alongside the liver)

 
Leave this on simmer and literally forget about it for at least 1 hour.
Season with salt, sugar (a pinch) and nimbu.

This needs to slow cook gently for a long time… The longer the better. Break into pieces as desired while cooking, mixing it once in a while as it cooks.

I simmered this for slightly over 1 hour to get a masala with a texture you can see in this pic!  

Serve hot with chapatis or rice!

शेव – दूध! Quintessential Parbhi style Pasta dessert!

The image below is an ancient kitchen tool called शेवारा… 

Parbhi style shev is somewhat like a South Indian Idiappam… 

This is served like a dessert… Accompanied with a dipping liquid  (sweetened coconut milk aka doodh or shire)!

The dish is prepared in many PP households at a Shravani Somvaar and is a part of the ceremonial meal held in the honour of a pregnant lady when she reaches her final trimester…

 

 Here goes the ultra simple recipe… Of course this is my version which is a contemporary adaptation of my mom’s age old recipe.
For the rice – vermicelli

Modakpithi (fragrant rice flour – basmati or ambemohar) – 1 cup

Water – 1 cup

Salt – 1/4 tsp

Sugar – 1/2 tsp

Ghee – 1 tbsp 

For the doodh

Coconut Milk / Cream  (fresh or out of a can) – 1 cup

Condensed Milk – 2 tbsp

Powdered Cashewnuts – 2 tbsp

Saffron – 1 healthy pinch

Cardamom and nutmeg (powdered) – a pinch each

Method

For the dipping liquid (doodh) – 

Whisk all the ingredients together till combined and simmer gently till it thickens slightly to a reduced milk like texture.

Set aside and cool completely.

For the shev – 

Bring the water to a boil with the salt, sugar and ghee.

  
Add the rice flour to the boiling water and quickly mix together.

  
Whisk this together quickly so that there are no lumpy bits left behind.

  
Cover this and cook on a low flame for a couple of minutes.

Once it cools slightly, knead well till it comes together to a smooth dough.

  
Divide into small portions and dip into boiling water for a 2-3 minutes… I’ve added a couple of turmeric leaves to the boiling water for that lovely aroma…

 
Drain out and set aside till they lose all excess moisture and steam…

  
All you gotta do next is mould these to vermicelli… The next few pictures depict how this is done using the ornate antiq shevara!

   
    
  
Serve this vermicelli warm with the flavoured coconut milk on the side./

  

श्रावणी सोमवार special – बदाम पोळी… Crisp Almond Roti!

  
Nothing compares with the Pathare Prabhu community’s obsession with पोळ्या… These are no ordinary rotis… While the rest of the Marathi world is content with Puran Polis and some may make the occasional sanjori, parbhus take this humble Maharashtrian dal stuffing and replace it with assorted goodies – ranging from grated dates, banana halwa (kel poli) to this decadent sinful stuffing of assorted nuts.

These exquisite crisp rotis with a sweet stuffing are a time consuming, labour intensive affair. 

The recipe is long and complicated… Bear with me 🙂 this yields 20 polis.

Ingredients 

For the filling 

Almonds – 1/2 cup (while I chose to mix all 3 nuts, you may choose to use the entire 1 and 1/4 cups of a single variety)

Cashewnuts – 1/2 cup

Pistachios – 1/4 cup

Castor Sugar – 1 and 1/4 cups

Cardamom powder – 1 tsp

Saffron – 1 generous pinch

Milk – 2 tbsp for the halwa and 1 tbsp to soak the saffron

Condensed Milk – 2 tbsp

Ghee – 2 tsp for the halwa and as required for frying the rotis

For the dough

Maida (refined flour) – 1 cup

Salt – 1 pinch

Oil – 2 tbsp

Rice flour – for dusting

  
Soak the almonds, cashews and pistachios in a cup each of warm water for 20-30 minutes.

Peel the almonds and any traces of peel on the pistachios. Drain off all the water. 

 
Grind these soaked nuts to a smooth paste. You may use small amounts of milk to make the paste if required while grinding.

Make sure you have a smooth paste. Any residual nut bits will make your polis crack open later.

In a non stick pan, heat the castor sugar with a tbsp or 2 of milk and add the nut paste.

Add the saffron (heated and soaked in some milk for an hour or two)

 

Stir this continuously over a low to medium gas flame for around 20-25 minutes.

  
Towards the end of these 20 minutes, the mixture will start leaving the sides of your pan and the consistency will be nice and sticky.
  

 
At this point, you know it’s ready… Add the ghee and mix in. Remove your pan off the flame and cool the mixture. Your halwa is now ready.

Once it’s cooled, divide the halwa into 20 equal portions and knead well.

 
Sieve the maida, add a pinch of salt and knead  to a stiff  dough (like you would for puris). Knead this well till smooth, add the oil and knead further. You want a smooth pliable elastic dough. Cover this with a damp cloth and set aside for at least one hour.  

  
Make 20 even portions of this dough and stuff each of them with the badaam halwa. If the halwa is too sticky, dust in a little rice flour before stuffing into your dough. If it’s too dry and stiff dip in a little milk and knead a lil before stuffing.

Roll these out like you would a puranpoli or a stuffed paratha, using some rice flour/ maida for dusting.

   
 
Roast over a slow flame and drizzle with a little ghee. This needs to turn out nicely crisp and golden brown.

  
This is a very delicate affair and as you can see in the pictures, not only are they tough to roll out, as you’re roasting them, they have a delicate brittle texture and may break if handled carelessly.

  
If you’re willing to make the effort, I assure you this is by far one of the tastiest sweets you can imagine!

  

Appe – श्रावणी सोमवारचा नैवेद्य!

  
The Hindu month – Shravan is the advent of the festival season. Most Hindus abstain from non-veg food and alcohol during this month. 

Most PP families don’t abstain throughout the month, but instead choose to fast and stay vegetarian on specific days. 

Every Monday of Shravan a fast is observed during the day and the fast is broken with a festive vegetarian dinner (had at dusk without uttering a single word… मौन)

This festive dinner is incomplete without a sweet element in the meal (traditionally laid out in a banana leaf). 

Most traditional families make a different sweet every single Monday in Shravan. 

This particular recipe is special to me as it was something my dear late grandmother would cook for the family on श्रावणी सोमवार.. 

Today is the first time I’ve attempted this recipe since she passed away 15 years ago!

You’ll need an Appepatra to cook these… It’s the same thing referred to as a Paniyaram pan in South India…

My recipe is a variant of Laxmibai Dhurandhar’s version in the PP cookery bible – the gruhini mitra… 

  
My recipe yields 15-16 standard sized Appe 

Rawa (Semolina) – 1 cup

Sugar – 1 cup (preferably castor sugar or simply grain sugar briefly blitzed in a grinder)

Cardamom powder – 1/2 tsp

Saffron – a few strands (optional)

Coconut Milk (or plain milk) to make a batter

Ghee – for shallow frying

Assorted nuts (cashews and almonds) and raisins 

  
Mix the Rawa and coconut milk to get a pakora like batter.

Soak the Rawa in coconut milk for at least one hour.

Mix in the sugar, cardamom and nuts and soak for a further hour.

Heat the Appepatra on a medium heat and add a few drops of ghee in each depression.

  
Pour in spoonfuls of batter in each depression and cook on a slow flame till golden on one side.

  
You may want to cover the pan for a few minutes since these are not really being deep fried – traditionally when they’re deep fried in ghee, there’s no need to cover…

Once it’s cooked, lift it off the pan and crisp on the other side on a flat nonstick Rawa in a little ghee.

  

Serve once cooled – garnished with some pistachios.

  

करंदीचे मिरवणी – Parbhi style baby prawns in a tangy curry…

This is my adaptation of a Parbhi recipe which is more often than not prepared using bombil… I’ve replaced the bombil with karandi and made a few tweaks to my Mum and Aaji’s recipe… The resultant curry is tangy and pairs perfectly with steaming white rice and simple fried fish on the side.

   
Ingredients (Serves 2)

Grated Coconut – 1 cup (3/4th for coconut milk and 1/4th for paste)

Garlic – 3 cloves (2 for paste and 1 for tempering)

Peppercorns – 5/6 nos 

Tamarind – a small ball (use more /less depending on how sour you’d like it)

Rice flour / 1 tsp rice soaked in water for 20 minutes 

Baby Prawns aka karandi – 1/4 cup

Hing – 1/4 tsp

Oil – 1/2 tsp

Coriander leaves to garnish

 Edit   

  
 
Method 

Grind 1/4 cup coconut to a fine chutney like paste along with 2 cloves of garlic, tamarind and peppercorns and salt to taste. Add a tsp or so of water if required.

Use 3/4 cup coconut to obtain thick and thin extracts (coconut milk) – blend the coconut first with 1/4th cup water and squeeze out the juice… Strain and set aside – this is the thick extract.

Add 3/4 cup water and repeat this process to obtain thin extract. While blending this time around, add the rice / rice flour… Squeeze and strain. 

In a thick bottomed pan, heat 1/2 tsp oil, add hing and a crushed garlic clove. Sauté till golden.

  
Add the ground coconut paste and sauté for a minute. Add the thin extract and bring to a boil.

 Edit   

Add the prawns and reduce the heat to a gentle simmer. The prawns should get cooked in a minute or so.

 Edit   

Once the prawns are cooked, add the thick extract and simmer further for 3/4 minutes. Once the thick extract is added, keep the heat gentle and do not allow the curry to come to a boil.

 Edit   

Add the chopped coriander leaves and serve warm with the steamed white rice and some fried fish alongside.

  
Perfect comfort food for a wet muggy day…

खिम्याचे पातवड – the mutton mince Parbhu variant of the humble अळुवडी

  
Ingredients 

Mutton Mince – 1/4 kg

Channa Dal – 1 cup soaked for 3 hours ground coarsely

Ginger Garlic Paste 1.5 tbsp

Green chillies – 2/3

Coriander leaves – chopped 1/2 cup

Tamarind extract – 2 tbsp

Colocasia Leaves – 9 nos (makes 3 rolls)

Salt to taste

Oil for deep frying

Method 

In a food processor, blend together all the ingredients except colocasia leaves and oil to get a coarse filling – somewhat like coarse shami kebab batter

Cut the stalks of the leaves and with a stone/weight, flatten out the veins.

Apply a thin layer of tamarind paste on leaf and spread a generous amount of filling. 

Repeat this process three times with three leaves (detailed steps in earlier prawn Patwad post)

Steam for around 20-25 minutes till done and cool completely.

Once cooled, slice into thin roundels and deep fry!

   
  
   

Preparing Gaboli (गाभोळी) aka Parbhi Caviar…

So here’s the deal – somewhere in the middle of the Mumbai monsoon (around mid-July)… The West Coast Hilsa aka Bhing / Paala makes an appearance in the Mumbai fish markets.

The Parbhus not unlike fish loving Bengalis are fond of their Bhing (which we use to make a sweet-sour curry aka Aatle)

The pièce de résistance however is the gaboli! 

Gaboli is the local (Marathi) name for fish roe… The fish roe commonly used in PP households are from any of the following –

Pomfret (सरंगा), Bombil, Ghol, Rawas, Surmai each of which have a unique flavour and last but not the least the Bhing / Palla Gaboli which is the tastiest of all. 

The Pomfret (spawn in the summers) and Bombil (spawning in the monsoons) Gaboli are usually not sold separately… They’re usually in the fish and you gotta keep your eyes open when your fisherman / woman are cleaning them for you (lest you find they’ve been discarded along with the entrails or worse – set aside for their own consumption)…

Hypercity (at Goregaon) usually sells these separately – you’ll invariably find some Rawas or Surmai Gaboli in stock if you enquire at the fish counter…

Rinse the Gaboli under running water and transfer to a microwaveable container. Make sure the container is large enough to accommodate the entire Gaboli. If it gets too crowded in there, chances are it may burst open while cooking and disintegrate… 

The opened disintegrated version is used in Koli style curries. As for PPs, we prefer ours intact.

Crush around 5-6 cloves of garlic and rub into the Gaboli… Add salt to taste, a tbsp of oil, half a tsp of haldi, 1 tsp of Kashmiri red chilli powder and 1tsp of PP style methkut masala. 

Add around 1/4 cup of water and mix these well.

  

Cover the pan and microwave for around 6-7 minutes on the lowest possible setting. You’ll find that the sac has lost it’s squishy form and become almost hard. (mind you it’s still a pretty delicate affair)

 Cool completely and cut these into 1/2″ thick slices. These are now ready to use…  
Note the uniform colour across the sliced roe. If you see the centre is jelly like – you need to cook slightly longer… Tastes quite disgusting if it stays raw.

These slices may now be used in a Parbhu style methkut curry or coated in some more masala, dabbed in a thin layer of rice flour and pan-fried for a couple of minutes in some oil over a non-stick tawa.

Both versions taste simply divine with some steaming hot rice! 

You could choose to steam the Gaboli instead of using the microwave (slotted vessel over boiling water). The cooking time will be slightly longer with the steaming method.

The cooked slices can be stored in a freezer and used when required. I find they store better cooked rather than raw. 

Will post a follow-up with whatever I end up making with these…